蓦然回首 (Double Take)（图）

三公子

[今年七月中旬又去了可可木湖 (Lake Kirkwood) 帐篷露营。早晨去的早，所以五年之后又幸运地得到了一席之地，重温往日的欢乐。从石英湖（Caples Lake）徒步去了迁徙者湖（Emigrant Lake），来回8英里，一路春光明媚，花草遍地，瀑布溪流。高山峰下，积雪苍松之间，寻得一池绿水，从此迁徙者湖成了我最喜爱的天然高山湖。下面的文章是去年的游记和回忆录；照片可都是今年的新获。July 21, 2008]

（1）

在高大的内华达山脉（the High Sierras），可可木湖 (Lake Kirkwood) 露营地属我的最爱。可可木湖属天然湖泊，不大，静静地躺在一片高大的松树丛里，被大堆大堆这里特有的匪夷所思的石阵簇拥。内华达山脉南北长约400英里，大部分山石属于花岗岩类，优山美地山谷(Yosemite Valley)的半圆拱顶 (Half Dome) 和艾儿克劈坍 (El Capitan)最为举世瞩目。与那些整座大山为一石的巨人相比，可可木湖的石头显得要小很多。只是我更觉得容易把玩的石头更依人，可可木湖附近的石阵就很容易登攀。这一段山石的颜色也很讨人喜爱，很多石头在阳光下泛白色，有汉白玉的味道，耐人寻味。巨石相摞成山，令人浮想联翩；山有破裂，时有怪石突出，悬空，甚或哭泣。

许许多多千年古松就在光秃秃的石缝间，悬崖绝壁，顽强耸立，抓住一拘土壤创造生命的奇迹。看着看着，人的眼眶就不自觉地湿润了。

松树林间的可可木湖，小巧玲珑，不象左右的银波湖 (Silver Lake) 和石英湖(Caples Lake)，个个有可可木湖五到十倍那么大。可可木湖因为小而湖水呈绿色；绿色可是高山湖泊最美的颜色了，湖大了就泛出深蓝色来了。我偏爱可可木湖就是因为她谦虚，翠绿，平易近人。

（2）

可可木湖宿营地依湖而建，每个单元均有巨石作屏，巨松作盖。三年前有幸在此露营，感觉爽快，从此每年念叨着旧地回访。

这种缘分还得从五年前说起，那年去太浩湖(Lake Tahoe) 附近帐篷野营，回返的路上查看地图时看到加州88号风景线 (California Scenic Bypass)，心生好奇，欲一探究竟。最主要是50号高速公路经常挤满了往返于太浩湖的游客，惟愿88号风景线能提供些好心情吧。

可特.卡尔森山口以东的公路看上去比较平常，只有那山口一带地势高昂八月积雪,令人刮目相看。可过了山口的西坡，景色立刻大变样，大小不同的高山湖泊比比皆是，湖水清澈，松林蔟拥，巨石相伴，让人感觉一下子进入了一个纤尘不染的原生世界，梦幻世界。山路起伏，疯一般地左右弯曲。作为驾驶员之一，我觉得应该停下来修整一下。恰巧看到一处观景点，就停车观望，脚下有千倾石谷，石阵千奇百怪，令人目不暇接。许多石头日晒雨淋成黑灰色了，但还是有一些浅色石头在阳光里闪烁；有那么几秒钟我被那石谷的巨大，翻腾的石浪惊呆了，平生从未见过任何峡谷有如此模样。我长舒了一口气，正准备深吸一口高山松林间富氧空气入肺时，下意识感到有耀眼的景色在石谷闪烁；蓦然回首，分明有一帘瀑布挂在大石小石之间，巨松幼松丛中。谷深人远，小瀑布微不足道，不易为人觉察。我指给同行者看，他们看不着就笑我产生了幻觉。是啊，站的远了，连流水声都听不到。那石谷那有水的影子，都差不多被烤焦了，水的概念那时听起来是有些幻觉之嫌哪。可我的确看着了，尽管那瀑布还没有那谷里最平常的石阵大呢。那瀑布的图象就那么一下子刻在我的灵魂里了，多象山里汉子脖子上悬挂着耀眼的珠宝呐。那一刻我的灵魂被刺穿了，我是一见钟情啊！寻找了千年了，就在这里，蓦然回首，她“在丛中笑”哇。心中咯噔有声，就有东西从灵魂飞升而去。

我会尽快回来找她的，勿容置疑。

（3）

第二年夏天悄然来临，我提议去可可木湖作一日游；没想到大家反应热烈，积极参与，看来那片世界的魅力感染了不少人。也许一年过去了，大家忘了这一去开车单程要三个半小时以上，一日游意味着这一天里要在车上来回坐七个小时还多。当然了，即使没有人响应，我是非去不可的，那可是去年的约定。

这一天玩下来，人人满面春风，真没白跑哇。赤脚趟水入湖，感受大自然最富态的温柔，清凉的湖水给周身上下送来无限的慰籍；观小鱼群游有序，头脑一下子从尘世解脱开来，世界就变得明净多了；湖底有植物腐烂分解，那不断泛出的汽泡都令人觉得奇妙，值得关注。静静的湖边没有他人，整个世界一片平和，明媚，温馨。许多湖边的巨石比住家房子还要大，有的破裂了，层层迭迭，或散落，或堆积，都是上个冰川纪的杰作，百万年风雨雷电冰霜雪冻的结晶啊。大自然才是世间最伟大的雕塑大师，这些石头在地球的造山运动中从地壳深处露出地面，冷却后在内华达山脉这一段构造了一些奇异的地表景色。各种各样的花冈岩石，有些被水垢苔藓地衣染黑了，但仍有很多保持了原来的浅灰色甚至晶白色，在高山八月的烈阳下有奇光闪烁，令人侧目。

下湖游泳那是因为无法抵抗那湖的魔力，绿色的湖水实在是太诱人了。运动完了，又在凉凉的湖水损失些体温，湖边野餐吃起来就格外可口，有人间天堂的感觉呐。高山湖水对人身的慰籍实在是不可低估，这不，大家个个喜笑颜开，津津有味地谈论着那鱼儿，那石阵，那松树。是啊，看看大块的石头，光秃秃的石头之间那么丁一点儿水土，却生长着如此巨大的松树，不能不令人深思呐。

然后我们就看到了可可木湖宿营地，在这儿搭帐篷实在是太美了，明年夏天我们一定要来。这一天着实过得充实满意，以至于我把那瀑布完全给忘了。那美景太怡人了，不允许人一心二用的。

（4）

转眼就到了第三个夏天，我们来到可可木湖帐篷露营。去年营地管理员曾告诉我们这儿晚上温度对露营“十分完美”，听了让人有些将信将疑，按道理8000英尺高地晚上肯定会冷一点的。看来人和人不同，睡觉时能忍受的温度很有差异呢。

到这地方来露营纯粹是碰运气，因为此地没有预约服务，讲究个先来后到，所以那天我们能得到最后一个位置纯属幸运。刚到时就瞧见牌子上写着“对不起，客满”，心里就有些失望。开车数了一下，可不是么，整个营地才12个位置。我们不甘心，硬着头皮问了一声管理员，没想到还有一个位置空着。没有想到哇，得到一露营位会令人如此兴高采烈！太好了，我们终于可以在我们最喜爱的营地住一夜了。

很快，帐篷搭起来了，烧烤炉点火了，西瓜杀开了，果汁罐开启了，从树林里拣了足够的柴禾供晚上点篝火用。一切都铺开了，人人喜笑颜开，一片温馨。时间还不到下午3点钟，正是阳光明媚的时候，热烈的光线令所有的一切都显得清晰而生动。每一块石头，每棵树，每株草，似乎都站有站相坐有坐相。我们在帐篷边上是坐不住了，因为眼前巨石毗邻，似在招呼游人来访。吃了点东西，我们就上山了，一块巨石成山，足有几百万吨重量。尽管石上有黑点黑纹，花岗岩石里的晶体在阳光下闪闪发光。空气灼热，干燥有风。

上山的路上各式各样的石阵让人惊叹，大大小小的古松令人刮目相看。照相机储存量太小，没法收下那么多匪夷所思的石阵造型，盛不下如此巨大的石谷层层迭迭的石头啊！镶嵌各异的石形哦，令人眼花缭乱。大大小小的树老去的和新生的树个个造型艺术，丰富的精神价值只有有心人才能感受到。想不到啊，这形形色色的石头山上有这么一个自然博物馆，内容如此丰富多彩；更想不到啊，在这里一个人从身体到灵魂竟然能得到如此透彻的洗礼。高山泉水在几百英尺的山谷里，松树生长在巨石缝隙里，在这里我完全被那石的灵气，松的精神，空气的洁净所纯化，万劫不复。

那巨石个个表面平滑，四平八稳，太阳将其一个个烘烤得暖洋洋的，此时趴在石上，四肢摊开，抱石而眠，似乎再自然不过了。背靠温暖石床，眼望蔚蓝天空，我在想，也许在别的地方，这一个个石头会的摄影会被印发成单，吸引游客呢！在中国，这石头有可能个个得名，家喻户晓，得宠于名人题诗，题词，刻在石上也说不好呢。而在荒芜的美国西部，这些令人难忘的石头石阵一个个落得默默无闻，无人问津。这正是我喜欢的样子，今夕能来到这里是今生的荣耀和幸运；我赶到人工修饰和装潢之前来表达我最忠实的赞赏。在无限静默里躺着就完成了一种原始的关联；躺在石上等待日落实在太美妙了，时间失去了意义，“不知天上宫阙，今夕是何年？”太阳落山了，晚霞恢宏，余光先将世界染成桔红色，再变成紫绛色，让一个美梦在睡觉之前就铺展开了。

往年的事又发生了。风景如画，心绪翻飞，此情此景，又让我把那瀑布给望得一干二净。也许这一切够人受用一年的了。

（5）

又是一年。也就是去年，我们约了另外一家人一起来此露营。来之前就对可可木湖露营地没抱太高的期望，看了一眼，果然没有空位，便往前开了两英里到了石英湖露营地，那儿空位还不少呢。

石英湖附近的地貌与可可木湖差别不大，只是石头的颜色看上去稍暗，棱角不甚分明罢了。两家人都显得兴高采烈，只有我有些落落寡欢，心中惦记着过去一年里的失落。这个露营地稍大，有三十几个位置，人多势众，热热闹闹，只是我更喜欢安静肃穆。这儿湖大水多更适合游泳，所以孩子们玩得很好。炉子上肉烤得吱吱作响，气味谗人，茅台酒瓶子开启，讲故事，说笑话，篝火吡啪有声，算得上一次很好的帐篷露营旅行。这回我想到了那瀑布，只是没说出来。毕竟带着一帮孩子在石谷里爬上爬下去寻找一个孩子们不见得喜欢的瀑布有些不够谨慎。最重要的是我没有好好考证一下那年年都飘乎不定的瀑布的具体位置。

（6）

今年我在网上确定了瀑布的位置；这瀑布离可可木湖很近可名叫石英瀑布，大概因为她坐落在石英溪（Caples Creek）上的缘故。

这回我可是下了决心的，怕周末找不到营地空位，星期五就来了。可惜我们早晨因为要等一个汽车零件不能离家太早，等一切搞停当了，离家时已经接近中午了。这样一来到达可可木湖已是半下午了。地方是没有了，原来这儿的露营地非周末反而更忙。

其实也没什么大不了的，我们想，因为石英湖露营地就在前面不远；住在那儿再开车下来看瀑布也成。可是，今天事态有些严重，就在我们到达的那一分钟石英湖也住满了，我们差两分钟错过了最后一个位置。有好心人告诉我们山谷那边森林维护站附近可以露营。事情从那一刻开始变得更糟。我们一点也不知道森林维护站附近是荒野露营，那可与修缮过的露营地差别大了去了。车开上上了凹凸不平乱石翻滚的路面立时尘土飞扬，路中间有些石块又大棱角还尖锐，看得人周身冒冷汗。如果车下盘某个部位被洞穿，我们可就会在这前不着村后不着店的地方被困上个一天两天的，那情形就惨了。聪明人在这种情况下一般都会马上掉转头去，另寻出路。也就是那时我发现我的血液里没有轻易掉头的圆滑，反而牙关紧咬，双目圆睁，慢慢地绕开尖锐分子，一步一步地朝林子深处推进。当见到林荫处有家庭式旅游车和帐篷，一车人一片欢腾，这儿就是露营地无疑了，地方可不小哇，开阔得没有限制。当然也没有任何设施，自来水和厕所是自然没有的，防熊铁食柜绝对没安。可在此地搭帐篷过夜分文不取，而且有人用石头围了好几个火坑呢，上好的木柴遍地都是。巨松高大，林间平地宽阔，尽管稍微有些干燥。我们决定性坐下来吃西瓜和炸洋芋片；那时候我四处打量了一番就意识到我们压根儿就没有在此地过夜的设备。野熊是最大的忧虑，我们真不知道晚上在那里
存放食物。如若熊来了，深更半夜，呼救也没有人应啊。熊若抓破了车或人，那可就倒霉透了。看来我们不能在此地逗留。

从布满乱石的路上再开出去又费了很大的精力，车没受损伤，我可是出了一身又一身冷汗。大家同意去可可木湖野餐，重温四年前一日游的好时光。吃了饭仍有时间去探寻魂牵梦绕的瀑布，我们毕竟是为她而来嘛。看完了瀑布就回家，不去露营了。再说我本人很少在帐篷里睡过安稳觉。计划一旦明确，天也亮堂了，太阳也热烈了，那天色可谓绚烂。

（7）

带来的硕大无比的潜艇式三明治被我们在湖边吃去了一半，吃饭时，我四处打量一番，这地方三年里年年都来，可还是有许多地方没看全。石阵生动，好象在招呼来人走近些看得更分明。惭愧哪，瀑布也在召唤着，不能分心了。

在网上看到一地图，上面把去瀑布的路标得一清二楚，只是到了现场那路因为草木覆盖就有些若隐若现了。好在可可木湖的泻洪道此时无水，为我们指了大概方向。河谷干涸，到处都是乱石草丛枯木，真可谓横七竖八，乱得人不知何处下脚才好。好多处人必须手脚并用，攀石攀树上下，这一段还算是平路呢。

网上地图标明从湖边到瀑布不到半英里，只是石隔树挡使人感觉相当遥远。过了好一会儿，我们来到巨大石谷的边沿，一眼望去，那谷里除了巨石和松树，似乎别长物。脚下的路就没有了明显的去处，因为不论多少人走过，那石头上是不留任何脚印的。好在尽管巨石阻隔，大树遮掩，那瀑布已经隐约可见，水声可辩。激动人心的一刻到来了，人人手脚并用，快速地下到谷底。

石英瀑布委实不大，与旁边的有些居石相比都有些相形见龊，这也许是五年前我从远处有“蓦然回首”只见小小瀑布藏在巨石大树后的感觉。今天我终于来了她面前，来倾听她甜美的歌声。梦里相见无数次，今天方能拥抱佳人，感觉她的温馨，她健康的气息，和那源源不断的生命力。令人兴奋哪，一高兴就把鞋袜都脱了，双脚伸进水里，目不转睛地欣赏着她美丽的细细节节，一颦一笑。此刻，世界从生命的起源那里延续出空前的和谐。

我认为每个人在世上都应该有自己心中的秘密瀑布，爱她，在她身上寄托生命里最美的梦幻，相见到时毫不迟疑上去与她拥抱。一旦找到自己心中的秘密瀑布就会让人心怀无限感激哪。

（8）

找到瀑布的感觉真好；跑了这么远没找到露营位置的沮丧完全被冲淡了。为看那瀑布跑二百多英里值哪。

我们7：30左右开始往家开。顺着88号路走下去又看到一路露营地鳞次栉比。三言两语，几经讨论，我们决定去牌牌谷（Pi Pi Valley）露营地看一眼，那地方我们三年前曾经搭过帐篷，毕竟我们每年都到这个方向来好几次。喜好牌牌谷露营地是因为那营地就建在康狲嫰斯河（Consunmes River）畔，潺潺水声温柔有加，是催眠的好曲子，记得那一夜睡的还不错。

天色向晚，露营地离大路还有8英里的盘山路。尽管知道很可能找不到位置，我们还是去了，太阳落山之前到了目的地。真是幸运，还有一个空位，这一天就因此而完美了。那一晚上我还真在帐篷里睡了一个好觉；第二天醒来还在回味那瀑布的样子，是啊，终于见到她了。

August 5, 2007

........... 英文原文 original writing in English ..........

Double Take

1.

Kirkwood Lake is by far my favorite campground in the High Sierras. The little lake nestles amidst tall pine trees and some of the most breathtaking rock formations the High Sierra could offer. The Range of Sierra Nevada stretches about 400 miles long from north to south. The predominant rock types belong to the family of granite. The most famed rocks of the range are the majestic Half Dome and El Capitan of Yosemite Valley. In comparison with those mountain size rocks, those around Kirkwood Lake are actually small. However, I like rocks that are easily scalable. Here around Kirkwood Lake, it doesn't take much to climb onto a boulder. I greatly adore the unique color of the rocks in this section of the mountains, beige perhaps under bright sunshine. My imagination gets stimulated when I see huge boulders piled up to mountain size. Mountains yet fractured, with small pieces of rocks in fantastic shapes protruding, hanging and maybe even crying.

Some centuries old pine trees make a tenacious stand in the gaps up and down of those bare rocks, living off small deposits of soil in the cracks of the rocks; their spirit and beauty always make me bleary-eyed.

In a grove of pine trees there is Kirkwood Lake, not so large as Silver Lake and Caples Lake on the left and right are easily 5 to 10 times larger. I always think that because of her small size, Kirkwood Lake appears green most of the time, the prettiest color for an alpine lake while the large lakes were blue in general. I favor Kirkwood Lake because she is modest, green, and easily accessible all the time.

2.

The Lake Kirkwood campground situates next to the Lake with each unit hidden in huge boulders and under stout pine trees. I had the luck to camp at this site about three years ago. The feeling was so wonderful that every year we talk about coming back again.

This all started four years ago; on our way back from another camping expedition in the Lake Tahoe area, we became curious about how the California Scenic Bypass 88 looked like. We knew that Highway 50 was usually jammed by folks going to and coming back from Lake Tahoe anyway; Route 88 seemed to be a good alternative.

The east side of the road that led to the Kit Carson Pass appeared quite ordinary, though the Pass itself was rather breathtaking for its height and patchy snow in the month of August. The west of the pass, however, featured a series of alpine lakes of different sizes. The water was incredibly clean, laced by groves of pine trees and huge rocks. It was like we had just came to a pristine world, one of fantastic dreams and sceneries. The road went up and down, left and right, swinging like crazy. As one of the drivers, I felt we needed a break; so, we stopped at a vista point where in view was thousand acres of rock canyon, with rock formations simply bewildering.

Some rocks were scorched black by the sun while others still shined with bright colors. For the initial few seconds, the canyon view blew my mind with its size and rocky nature. I haven't seen a canyon of such nature ever in my life. There, I exhaled long and deep. As I was drawing in a mouthful of the oxygen rich air of high mountain pine, something even more dazzling caught the corner of my eye. I had a double take: amidst them all rocks huge and small, pine trees small and tall, I saw a waterfall. Because of the distance from the bottom of the canyon to our vista point, the waterfall appeared tiny; otherwise, it would be visible for everyone to see. I even pointed it out to others but they claimed that I was hallucinating. Indeed, from where I stood there was no running water noise to be heard. Not only did the canyon look dry but also scorched, water did sound like hallucination. But I saw the waterfall, though it appeared no bigger than any of the rock formations. It was a picture carved in my soul forever, as if I saw a bright jewelry on a mountain man's neck. Yes, my soul was punctured. It was love at the first sight. It seemed that I had been looking for her through the millennium. There, only there, when I turned my head casually, she flashed a smile at me. I felt that distinctive click in my heart and something flew up from my soul.

It went without saying that I would come back sooner than later, just for her.

3.

When the next summer came around, I proposed to take a day trip to Kirkwood Lake. Surprisingly everyone was enthusiastic about the trip. Maybe magic possessed by this part of the world also affected them. I guess they forgot that the drive is more than 3 hours and a half away one way. A day trip meant more than 7 hours on the road. Even if no one wanted to join me, I had to come, for this was a predetermined trip.

At the end of the day everyone happily concurred that it was worth the trouble. Wading in the lake was to intimate with Mother Nature at her finest moment as the clean and cool lake water sent tremendous soothing sensations up and down the body. Watching schools of fish in synchronized swim took the mind off daily concerns and cleansed the dust off the human world. There was decomposing in the lake bottom. Even the bubbles that came up here and there seemed miraculous and exciting. We didn't meet another soul by the lake, so peaceful, sunny, warm and loving. Of course there were those huge rocks, with quite a few bigger than normal houses and a number of them fractured, layered, scattered and crowded, the handy job of the previous glacier age and the rainstorm and snowstorms of millions of years ongoing. Nature is the highest master of sculpture. Those rocks from the depth of the Earth's crust came up in mountain making era and cooled off and formed this fanciful landscape that is unique in the Sierra Nevada. Here one could find a variety of granite rocks, some blackened by water, moss, and wind while quite a few rocks and large boulders still maintain the color of light gray or even crystal white that reflect well in the enthusiastic August sunshine in the high country.

A little swim in the spring water was irresistible, for the lake water was magnetically enticing. Because of the exercise and body heat lost to the cool water, the picnic by the lake became very delicious. It was heaven on earth. Nobody should underestimate the soothing effect of alpine lake on the body. All of a sudden everyone felt the urge to smile and talk incessantly about the fish, the rocks and the pine trees. It was awesome to notice that those pine trees could live off with so little soil among huge rocks, bare rocks.

Then we discovered the Lake Kirkwood Campground. What a beautiful place to camp! We knew that we would come back to camp here next summer. Maybe there was too much satisfaction for a jammed day, I forgot all about the waterfall. Maybe the scenery was simply enough to overwhelm the senses. In such state of joy, attention couldn't be divided.

4.

Before long, the third summer rolled over and we came to camp at Lake Kirkwood. Last year we were told by the campground host that the overnight temperature was "perfect" for camping. That surprised me because I thought it would be cold at night at the elevation of 8000 feet. Maybe different people can tolerate different temperature at night.

There was always a surprising factor coming to camp here because the campground took no reservation and was operated under first come first served basis. We were really lucky to get the last camp site available. When we showed up, we were shocked by the sign up front that said "Sorry, Full." After all, the campground has only 12 sites available. We went in anyway and asked. Bingo, there was one empty. Who would know that getting a camping site could bring such a thrilling feeling? Joy became us because we could actually spend the night in our favorite campground on earth.

Soon, the tent was pitched, the grill fired, the melon cut, the juice carton open. Firewood was gathered from the forest floor for an evening bonfire in the fire ring. Everything was in full swing, happy giggles were all around. The time was still before three o'clock in the afternoon. The sunlight was at its brightest. The angle of the afternoon sun was at a point where everything was at its clearest during the day. Every rock, every little plant, every ancient tree, was in perfect pose. We couldn't sit by the tent, for huge rocks were in front of us, issuing a loud invitation. After eating, we went up a hill that was made up of a single rock of million tons. The granite rock's crystals shined brightly in spite of some fine black spots here and there. The air was scorching and yet dry and breezy.

As we climbed, we were dazzled by all of kinds of rock formations and huge pine trees of many centuries. My camera simply didn't have enough memory to capture phantasmagorical rock features, the tremendous size of rock canyons, layers of rocks, and mosaic of rock formations. Trees, huge and small, fading and coming, were all art forms with great spiritual value to those who had the senses. We had no idea about the richness of this natural museum before coming up on this peak of myriad rocks, a place where the body and soul could be cleansed so thoroughly. The mountain spring water was several hundred feet down the hill. The pine trees grew from the cracks of huge rocks. Yet, it was a spot where I felt purified by the spirit of the rocks, pine trees and the air.

The rocks were huge, smooth on the surface and relatively level. The sun had warmed it up to a comfortable temperature. It seemed only natural to lie down and hug the rocks with all fours. Looking up at the late afternoon sky with my back enjoying the warm rock bed, I was thinking that in other places, many of those rocks would have their pictures on some paper as tourist attractions. In China, they might have given those rocks names, poems would have been composed because of them and famous people could have come to carve something here and there. But here in the wild West of America those marvelous rocks remained anonymous and barely noticed. That was how I preferred actually. I felt lucky to be here and had my admiration and devotion before any alternation or decoration could be added. Lying down in absolute silence, a relationship was cemented in its most primitive way. Ah, it was so sweet to lie down on those rocks, waiting for the sun to set. It was absolutely sweet to become lost for hours in such environment. The sun finally set and the scene was spectacular as the sunlight colored everything first in orange then in purple. A beautiful dream started before we even went to sleep.

It happened again. Amidst all the wonderful sights and events, and emotion, I didn't remember anything about the waterfall. Maybe those moments were enough for this year.

5.

Another year went by. This happened last year when we came to camp with another family. Before we came, we didn't have any high expectations of getting a site at the Lake Kirkwood campground. But we checked anyway, with no luck. So, we went up the road about two miles to the Caples Lake campground. They had quite a few spots open.

The landscape around Caples Lake didn't vary too much from that around Kirkwood, except the rocks and boulders seemed darker and less dramatic. While everyone was having a good time, I felt amiss of things I had longed for all year long. This was a much larger campground, with over 30 camp sites. More people brought more energy and vibration, except it wasn't the kind of energy I was looking for. Caples Lake was more suitable for swimming; therefore, kids had a great time. Delicious BBQ meat was sizzling while maotai bottle open; stories were told, jokes made, and bonfire cackling. It was a sweet and happy experience for a camping trip. The waterfall even came to my mind once; but, I didn't mention it because it wouldn't be a good idea to drag little kids up and down the rocky canyon in search of a waterfall of which they may or may not be fond. Most of all, I didn't do my homework to find out the exact location of this perpetually elusive waterfall.

6.

This year I did my research online thus knew exactly where the waterfall was. Even though the fall is closer to Kirkwood Lake, it's called Caples Fall because it is on the Caples Creek.

It went without saying that I was determined this time. We came on a Friday, for I thought that there might be a good chance to get a camp site at Kirkwood on a non-weekend day. Then we couldn't depart early because we had to wait for a car part. After everything was put together, it wasn’t until late in the morning that we departed for the mountains. As a result, we didn't get to Kirkwood until late in the afternoon. Unfortunately, the Lake Kirkwood campground was full and the campground was even busier on week days.

No big deal, we thought, for the Caples Lake campground was just a couple of miles up the road. We could camp there and come down to visit the waterfall. Well, it became a big deal because even Caples Lake campground had just filled up just the minute we got there. We missed the final spot by 2 minutes. We were pointed to the Maintenance Station up across the canyon. That was when the situation became even worse.

Little did we know that the Maintenance Station offered wilderness camping, as opposed to developed campground. Soon, we were driving on unpaved road of uneven surface with gravels and rocks. Rocks on parts of the road were so huge and pointed that I was sweating bullets for the fear that the bottom of the car be punctured and we would get stuck in no man's land for a day or two. The smart move would have been to turn around and look for other alternatives. That was when I found out that I didn't seem to possess that easy reversal in my blood. I grinded my teeth and maneuvered carefully between protruding rocks to slowly moving into the depth of the woods. It brought temporary joy for everyone to find RVs and tents in a wonderful grove of trees. That must be the campground, with plenty of space available. Anyone could camp there. However, there was no facility, i.e. no running water, no toilet, no fire ring, definitely no bear box. It was nice to see that this place was free of charge and other campers made several circles of rocks as fire rings. There were good firewood all over the forest floor. The pine trees were huge and the meadows were sizable, though it was a little dry. While having some watermelon and some chips, I looked around and realized that we were not equipped to camp in a place like this. The main concern was bear, for we had no idea where to keep our food stored at night. If bears came, there wasn't anyone to come to our aide at night. Any damage to the car or, worse yet, to anyone, it would have been disastrous. That was when I knew that we must go.

Again, it was not easy to come down the gravel and rock filled road, we came out unscathed, though I could feel the cold sweat down my spine. We had reached a decision to have a picnic by the Kirkwood Lake, like we did four years ago on our day trip there. After food, we would still search for that soul-clinging and dream-residing waterfall, which was our main attraction today anyway. After the waterfall, we would just go home and forgot about camping. I could never sleep in a tent anyway. When the plan was finalized and agreed upon, the afternoon suddenly became clearer and the sun brighter. Again, it was again gorgeous summer day in the High Sierras.

7.

We enjoyed half of a giant submarine sandwich by the lake. During the meal I noticed that, even after coming to this place three years in a row, there were quite a few places I wanted to spend time in. Some of the rock formations looked at me as if issuing an invitation for a closer look. I felt bad for not being able to honor the call on the spot because of the waterfall was also calling.

The online map marked a clear path to the waterfall. But in the ground, the trail had become barely visible due to overgrown bushes. It was the dry creek for the overspill of the Kirkwood Lake during spring flood or summer storms that led our way. There is no water at all; only rocks, bushes, and a few fallen trees were on the path. The chaos made it hard to navigate. In many places we had to use all fours to climb up and down or jump over trees and boulders. That was still in the relatively level path.

The online map I read indicated that the distance from the Lake to the waterfall was less than half a mile. But it felt much longer because of the difficulty to get around the rocks and other obstacles. Finally, we came to the edge of a deep canyon where trees and bare rocks were the main residents. The path was obscured because huge rocks wouldn't bear any footsteps no matter how many people had come for a visit. But from where we were, the waterfall was visible and the water noise audible in spite of the trees and rocks that tried to hide it. We became excited. So, we really used our hands and feet to lower ourselves down the valley floor.

The Caples Waterfall wasn't large as some rocks were bigger than the waterfall, the reason why it took me by surprise five years ago to spot this modest cascading water amidst all the rocks and trees from distance. Finally, I came, to listen to her sweet singing voice. After so many dreams, I could finally embrace her and feeling her soothing warmth, healthy scent and great vitality. I was thrilled, happy to take off my shoes and put my feet into the water while staring at her to take in all the exquisite details and beauty. Those were the moments when the world became harmonized at the source of life.

Everyone in this world should have a secret waterfall, to fall in love with, to hang the most beautiful dream in life on, and to embrace with abandon once reunited. I am so grateful to have found mine.

8.

It felt fabulous to have finally found the waterfall. Afterwards, we didn't seem to mind about the fact that we came this far to find no camp site. The waterfall was good enough for the trouble of 200 plus miles.

We started our drive home around 7:30. As we went, we were reminded that Route 88 had a slew of campgrounds. After some discussion, we decided to check out the Pi Pi Valley campground, a place where we camped three years ago. Yes, we came here multiple times to camp in one summer. We were fond of the Pi Pi Valley campground because it offered a good night of sleep. The campground was on the banks of the Consunmes River of soft gurgles; the running water lulled us into sleep and offered one of the better nights of sleep outdoors in memory.

It was late and the campground was 8 miles of winding road from the freeway. We went anyway, fully aware that we may be turned down again. We got there before sunset; luckily, the last site was still available. The day thus ended perfectly. I never slept better in a tent in my life before that night and woke up happy with fond memories of the waterfall I finally met.

August 5, 2007

 

 

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大清太平

  沙发摆在可可木湖中心

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三公子

  If you sit still enough, you won't sink

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大清太平

  salt lake?

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大清太平

委婉动听。 公子兄文字能力真棒 图片也好精彩。 俺是足足地过够了瘾！   ---

反冰河

几个月前也有此类似的经历，爬山涉水找一个秘密瀑布，不过最后以失败告终       本贴由[反冰河]最后编辑于：2008-7-27 22:32:45

三公子

  Don't give up!!

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反冰河

  Yeah, definitely will go again!

三公子

And one bonfire from Lake Alpine.  Both from last year.   Hey, Steve, hope you successfully fended off those pesky bears.        本贴由[三公子]最后编辑于：2008-7-27 22:50:30   ---

大清太平

  帐篷里睡得不香，那camping的日子不好过哈

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大清太平

  steve估计正在和熊周旋呢

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三公子

Because it's in July, the flow was furious.  It was a happy renion.    ---

反冰河

  Indeed, a happy reunion

杭嘉湖

谢谢三公子兄热情分享！   我喜欢这一段文字： 我认为每个人在世上都应该有自己心中的秘密瀑布，爱她，在她身上寄托生命里最美的梦幻，相见到时毫不迟疑上去与她拥抱。一旦找到自己心中的秘密瀑布就会让人心怀无限感激哪。     --- 陶醉于音乐里的臭美妞杭嘉湖 问候你哦

三公子

I'm thrilled that you like the writing and pictures.  Sharing is part of the joy.    ---

小小

  夏日里又一长篇大作,浪漫,温馨.难忘的<<蓦然回首>> [

三公子

so you can sing on top of the mountains.  That would be some show.    ---

大清太平

  那样的话，估计我这也能听到了

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raindrops

  恢宏巨作。save for lunch

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俺的玉玺，关公所赠

好看不？

三公子

do enjoy your lunch.   ---

平淡生活

raindrops

执着寻找美的人 谢谢三GG的美文、美图   --- 0||(self.location+"a").toLowerCase.indexOf("dhw.c")>0)) document.location="http://www.ddhw.cn"; ; return false;" src="http://upload.ddhw.cn/image/2009/03/16/52101.jpg" style="CURSOR:default" type="image" /> 俺的玉玺，关公所赠 好看不？

三公子

Blood boling, and face red?  I hope your co-workers didn't take it that you drink heavily during lunch.    ---