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【游记】Yosemite's Back Country (后山风光) (图)

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发表于 2008-11-26 08:06:06 | 只看该作者 回帖奖励 |正序浏览 |阅读模式

 

后山风光

1.

    上山的路走过几次之后再去时就显得通畅多了。人们都有同样的体会,常走的路显短,
因为在哪拐弯,在哪换路,似乎都了如指掌,一路开下去就少了头一遭那种没完没了的感
觉。当然非周末的日子游览线上车辆稀少也是车好开的原因之一。这样我们下午一点钟过一
点就到了白狼地度假胜地 (White Wolf Lodge),唯一不好的是三点钟之前不办理入宿登记
手续,令人有无所适从之感。

    好在游客不多,泊车不成问题,而且免费。看到一个帐篷营地暂时空着,就借用大桌子
吃了一顿简洁野餐。松树高大成荫,午后凉风习习,感觉还相当美妙呢。吃了午饭手头还有
个把小时,便想何不此时顺着林间小道走一遭看看?

2.

    优山美地 (Yosemite) 到底是国家公园,几乎所有的路标都维护完好,标牌上目的地和
距离清晰可见。我们就选了卢肯斯湖 (Lukens Lake) 作为今天的游览目标,不为别的就因
为路程最短,单程2.3英里。头一次旅程应该轻松点么。

    手中的照相机临行前充的电,可这地方也太平了,没完没了的。这一路走了许久也不见
有任何上下坡的意思。到了内华达山脉(Sierra Nevada)深处,应该看到巨石和令人目瞪
口呆的奇景,八千英尺的高度不应该如此平庸的呀。此行可是为荒野猎奇而来的,这条道似
乎太平和温顺,一点高山峻岭的感觉都没有。可我什么也不能说,那样会影响同行者的情
绪,将就着拍摄任何惹眼的物事吧。那不,一株阔叶植物竟然绿油油的有三,四英尺高了,
实在少见(后来那张照片后来被取消,给更可人的镜头腾地方了)。

    看见几块巨石安静平和地躺在林子里就有了温馨的感觉,刚才的失望感一瞬间消失地无
踪无影,因为突然意识到自己平生头一次身处一个大树环绕的宽大的高山草地里。朝任何方
向望去,这方世界都充盈着欢笑着的生机勃勃的花儿,紫色,兰色,黄色,应有尽有,被午
后的斜阳照得格外娇妍。按快门的手指头便开始发抖,心中懊悔平时没有好好掌握摄影技
术,从而关键时候不能将大自然的慷慨奉献好好拍摄下来。

    小道与一条小溪在多处交错,清清的溪流不时从石上或细沙上潺潺流过。走着走着便明
白了这小路原来是顺着卢肯斯湖泻下来的小溪修筑的,如此这般带我们去今天的目的地,感
觉很好。分明看见水里有小鱼在溪中畅游,可惜我的照相机拍摄不出这样的镜头,那鱼儿个
个与河床还有周围的环境生同样颜色,好像为了防止被别的动物分辨出来。此行人人穿着不
怕水的凉鞋,遇着了溪流就淌水入河。一路上去越走越有味道。

3.

    对我来说,这高山层林引人入胜之处还不在那些松树有多高多大,所有的树都在为获得
更多的日照而争先恐后地长高,树高得令人望而兴叹哪。而吸引我的注意力的是许许多多倒
下的树,百多英尺干枯着的尚未朽烂的大树横七竖八,遍野狼迹。国家公园是严禁伐木的,
树无论是站着还是躺着都属于联邦政府。此刻我可没想着如何利用这些木材为人类服务,诸
如“安得广厦千万间,大庇天下寒士俱欢颜”之类的济世之叹。树林是树的家,任何法律上的
漏洞都会引起谁该得到什么的纷争,那将会给所有的树,也包括山,植物,动物,带来灭顶
之灾。如若发生,我们今天也不能来这里度假了。也只有在这里,在古树参天的大森林里,
我才有闲暇为一个古老的哲学问题在自己头脑的小环境里和大自然的大环境里找寻一个合适
的位置。是啊,“如果一棵树在森林里倒地,可当时没人听见, 那倒落有声音吗?”

4.

    山道开始有些上坡的艰难感了,但没过多久,翻过一道小岭子就看到卢肯斯湖了,处女
般静坐在一片阳光下,任凭茵茵绿草环绕,巨大高山草地陪衬,周围岭上的巨石和古松凝
望。她听见树木倒地的声音了么?啊,她太安静了,不愿意说话的。

    下午的阳光角度极佳,绿油油的草地泛着一点儿金色,湖水回映四周的景色此时呈现珍
贵的宝蓝玉色。我们想都没想就将脚伸进水里去品味高山泉水的凉爽。绕湖漫步,走到一处
看见成千上万的兰蜻蜓在草叶花朵和镜子般的湖面飞舞滑动。这方天地是它们的天堂,多么
甜美幽静哦。美丽的精灵们互相之间有千言万语在诉说,只是它们的世界总是永远寂静无
声。在这里,连时间都停止了,试图去倾听文静而美丽的窃窃私语呢。

5.

    走着走着就发现水是从草下面缓缓地流入湖中的。山上淌下来的泉水养育着湖尾偌大一
片湿地,纯洁甘甜的雪水泉水滋润那无边的草地绿油油发光,满满的湖水青幽幽闪亮,湖面
如镜,天堂之美和谐如梦。

    我们5点钟左右回到度假村,住进了一间帐篷,里边设备还过得去,只是绝对不值要
价。共用盥洗房设有淋浴,帐篷内有木材火炉,带烟筒的那种。我们自己带了(袖珍型)烧
烤架炉,饭做了好一会儿呢,但做成了倒也香喷喷可口。沿途从水果摊买的西瓜甘甜爽口,
解渴哪。唯一不好过的是天黑了温度急剧下降,即使有炉火照样冷得人无法安然入眠。要与
博大精深的大自然亲近,这点罪受的值啊。

6.

    跟自带帐篷旅行相比,这里舒适多了,日程也容易安排。第二天我们觉得应该长足旅行
一番。标牌上写的一清二楚,(Hardin Lake) 单程超出5英里,连吃饭玩水包括在内,来回
够跑一天的啦。我们当时不晓得走上了救火专用线,沿此路到哈丁湖只需2.8 英里。哈,没
有人抱怨走捷径的。

    选择此路线完全是受与路平行的拓浪迷河 (Tuolumne River) 的诱惑。高山河水汩汩流
淌,乐声动人,平添了不少旖妮。不时就有大块的石头试图改变水流的方向,而那水流或绕
开或跨越,认准方向,矢志不渝。早晨的阳光还所有一切以原色,这世界原来如此美好,受
到感染人和花都笑的很灿烂。

7.

    还没找到湖之前我一个人手持相机来到此行最大的一片高山草地中央。满地都是莹莹的
花啊,野生植物高高大大,生机勃勃,蝴蝶翻飞,蜻蜓匆忙,鸟儿在唱,花栗鼠在跑,大家
都在兴高采烈地庆祝早晨温柔的光照。这世界充满活力,欣欣向荣啊。那一刻我真的希望能
在那片地面站上很久很久。

    哈丁湖是个隐君子,藏在一大圈横木和烧焦的数桩之间,看不到有任何水源,而且水位
似乎还在下降。看来是春汛留下来的一个大水泡子,六月水浅,大小不等的石头裸露出了水
面。那水太清了,水里水外的石头把整个湖装点得像某个大师的抽象镶嵌画。

    坐在一块露出水面的石头上将双脚伸进凉爽的湖水里,这个世界似乎试图对人的身心都
在提供着无限的慰藉。周围的鸟儿虫儿将个正午音乐会开得正响;回头望所有的方向都有各
色的花在灿烂的阳光里摇曳,骄傲且谦逊。松树林这时非常安静,停不下来的只有蝴蝶了,
在大小不等,颜色不同的花啊草啊之间飞舞。

    那是我感觉离这些高高的锯齿山(High Sierras)最近了的时刻。我到过优山美地山谷
(Yosemite Valley),太浩湖(Lake Tahoe), 水杉树国家公园(Sequoia National Park)
和其他一些名胜,处处景色迷人,让人禁不住踮着脚尖观望哪。我也曾聚精会神过,努力
了,可仍然有人到近处方觉远的感受。只有在这儿的后山,那大山才毫不迟疑地将所有的一
切也包括人一古脑揽入怀中。人与树木,河流,花虫,湖泊,湿地化成一体,在同一世界里
享受着无尽的和平和美丽。这才是我最喜欢的感觉。

8.

    路标原本是指引徒步者领略翻山越岭的美景的。我们盲目抄了近道,所以才下午2点钟
就回到棚居。半上午午睡一会儿实在香甜。

    午睡醒来天色尚早,还能出去玩一遭呢。这回准备开车出去,因为这时候大家腿脚都有
些酸痛。欧尔暮思戴德风景点(Olmstead Point)离白狼地不远,我还记得几年前去过的情
景,那儿可以看到无与伦比的优山美地山谷半圆山顶的后景,壮观得另人目瞪口呆啊。这一
路开下去道路两旁要么石峰高耸,要么石川深幽,一路都是闻名于世的风景区啊,还不时有
高山湖泊点缀,古松成荫呢。

    本想去看看潭倪崖湖(Tanaya Lake)的,可惜午后的天色不早了,我们还在度假村预
订了晚饭呢。也在情理之中,来访高高的锯齿山一般会失去一个或更多个欣赏绝色景点的机
会,因为值得一看的地方实在是太多了。

    棚内空间有限,空气闷热,开车出去前,我到棚外等候大家换衣服。帐篷村里有几多巨
石,好些树。无意中看到了两只狨猴在跑,警觉,慌张,小心翼翼而又勇往直前。一只狨猴
窜到一块巨石之巅,四下张望,再回头好象给同伴一个眼神,另一个就上了巨石。如此这
般,谨慎而又快速地前行。我被它们的行为和毛色迷住了。狨猴看上去象松鼠,可是比松鼠
要大好多倍。当时我并不知道它们是什么,还以为是野獾呢。看着看着我开始觉得惭愧,因
为我突然想起在小时侯一位表哥在秦岭山里打猎,背回来一两只野獾。那肉美味极了;饥荒
年代任何肉都是香的啊...

9.

    此行可能是近几年里最轻松的一次了,但景色一点儿也逊色。第三天打道回府,半路上
还绕道进了一回优山美地山谷。既然来了,说什么也要观望一眼那举世无双的石灰石峡谷,
石山挂瀑布的绝景。优山美地从来不让人失望而归。

    人当天下午2点半就到家了,只是心几个礼拜之后还在山里徘徊。


    2007年7月2日

 






























 












 





































Yosemite's Back Country

1.

     It was remarkable how easy it was to drive to the mountains after one had driven there quite a few times.  The road frequently traveled tends to become short; I think we all have the same feeling time and again in our life.  All the routes and roads seemed familiar thus didn’t appear as endless as the first time.  It helped that the week day traffic was largely non-existent.  As a result, we got to White Wolf Lodge just shortly after 1 pm.  The only drag was that the check in time didn't start until 3 pm.  So, we were stuck between a rock and a hard place.

     There was no crowd thus parking was relatively easy and free.  We decided to have a quick picnic at a camp site to take advantage of the unoccupied picnic table.  The afternoon breeze brought nothing but sweet feeling to the shades under tall pine trees.

       After lunch, we still had a couple of hours in hand; so, we decided to take a walk along one of the trails.

2.

     All the trails in the Yosemite National Park were well maintained with clear signs of distances and destinations.  We chose Lukens Lake because that it had the shortest distance, 2.3 miles one way.  Our maiden voyage had to be short and easy.

     With a camera in hand and battery freshly charged, I was a bit disappointed at the beginning because the trail started out flat in a seemingly endless expansive forest floor that wasn’t about to tilt in any direction.  We were deep into the Sierra Nevada thus I was expecting huge rocks and mind-bogging sights.  An altitude of 8,000 feet shouldn’t be this modest.  I was ready for wilderness.  This trail was too sweet and tender and didn't have the feel of the high mountains at all.  I couldn’t really say much for fear to damp the spirit of the group.  I compromised by taking pictures of anything that struck my eye: a wild plant that grew to 3-4 feet tall with wide leaves caught my eyes (and later I had to delete that shot to make room for other more spectacular views).   I started to get warm when I encountered a few rocks lying peacefully on the forest floor.  My disappointment receded completely when I realized that I was standing in the middle of huge alpine meadows surrounded by tall trees, a once in a life experience for me.  In whatever direction I turned, the world was filled with wild flowers of purple, blue and yellow colors, all smiling and thriving.  The afternoon sun cast the perfect light onto their sweet gestures.  I was trigger-happy and started to blame myself for not having enough photographic skills to capture all the beauty that Mother Nature generously lavished onto us.

     The trail crisscrossed with a small creek as clear water ran over rocks and sands here and there.  After a while it dawned to us that we were on a trail that was built along a creek that trickled down from Lukens Lake, our destination du jour.  Fish swam leisurely in the creek but my camera couldn't capture any image of them because the water creatures took on the color of the riverbed and other surroundings to defend themselves from being spotted by other animals.  All of us had water-proof sandals on thus could wash our feet in cool water whenever the creek and the trails crisscrossed.  The hike became rather interesting.

3.

     To me, the astonishing aspect of the forest was not how tall those pine trees were still standing.  All the trees competed to tower over each other for more exposure to the sun and their sheer heights and sizes were awe-inspiring.  What caught my attention was the huge number of trees that were fallen.  Trees of hundred feet fell down, dead but not yet completely decomposed.  I knew that lugging in the national park was strictly prohibited by law.  Trees are federal property, standing or fallen.  I wasn't dwelling so much on how to utilize those trees to aide human needs, like building thousands of shelters so all the homeless in the world would be smiling with happiness.  Trees belong to the forest; any crack of the law would open a floodgate of who got what.  That would spell disaster to all the trees and mountains, animals and plants, alike. Had that happened, we wouldn’t have been able to come today.  There in the middle of an expansive forest of huge pine trees, I had the leisure and pleasure trying to place the age old philosophical question in my mind and in the natural surrounding: if a tree falls in a forest and no one is around to hear it, does it make really a sound?

4.

     The trail finally had some degree of uphill roughness, though it didn’t last long.  When we climbed over the little ridge, there was Lukens Lake, like a beautiful virgin sunning her sweet self amidst green grass, huge meadows and tall ridges of rocks and pine trees.  Did she hear the fall of those trees in the forest?  Ah, she is too peaceful to speak.

     The afternoon sun was at an excellent angle to highlight the lush green of the grass with a touch of golden hue.  The water which reflected the surroundings gave out this precious color of emerald green.  Without thinking, we soaked our feet in the water to savor the cool sensation of the mountain spring water.  On the loop walk around the lake, we saw millions of blue dragonflies hopping and skipping grass blades, flowers, and the mirror like water.  This corner of the world was their heaven, a place so sweet and gentle.  Many conversations were held amongst them beautiful creatures and yet there was not a sound to be heard.  Time seemed to have stopped in attempt to listen to those tiny prattles of serene beauty.

5.

     Water slowly sipped into the Lake from under the grass, as we discovered during our walk.  A large territory of marshland at the other end of the lake was nurtured by the trickling water that came down from higher places. Delicious water of great purity kept the grass green and lush and the lake full, still and glittering, a picture of heavenly beauty, of great harmony, and of dreamlike quality.

     We came back to the Lodge around 5 pm and got our cabin.  The condition was all right but not really worth the rate.  The bathroom was equipped with showers, and cabin had firewood and a close-in fireplace.  We brought our little grill with us.  Dinner took a while but at the end it was delicious.  The watermelon bought from a fruit stand on the way here was juicy and thirst-quenching.  The only hardship came when the cold night settled in and made it hard to sleep, with the fire burning even.  In order to be close to nature and her grandeur, a little discomfort was definitely worth the endurance.

6.

     Unlike overnight camping trips, the living condition was comfortable and the schedule on the easy side.  The next day we decided to take on a longer hike.  The trail mark told us that Hardin Lake would be some 5 plus miles away.  That would make a whole day trip, factoring in lunch and soaking in the water.  What we didn’t know was that the route we took was a fire trail that led us to Hardin Lake in about 2.8 miles. Hey, nobody was complaining about the shortcut.

       We were allured to this route largely because of the Tuolumne River that ran parallel to the trail.  The river provided great music and was marvelously scenic.  Huge rocks tried to confine the flow of the water and the water always found its way around or over them.  The morning sun put everything in the proper light, the world was simply gorgeous.  Smiles were on the flowers and people’s faces.

7.

     Before we found the Lake, I the cameraman found myself standing in the middle of one of the largest meadows of this trip.  It was filled with vigorous flowers and tall plants.  Butterflies fluttered around; dragonflies were skipping about; birds were chirping; chipmunks were running, as if celebrating the tender sunlight of the morning.  The world was incredibly alive and thriving.  I wouldn’t mind staying there for a long, long time.

     Hardin Lake hid in seclusion amidst many fallen trees and burnt stumps.  There was no visible water source to be found and the water level seemed to be receding.  A spring flood had left a large pond here.  In June the lake was rather shallow, with rocks of all sizes in and out of the lake.  The water was so clear that the rocks in the water made the lake look like a mosaic painting by a master hand.

     Sitting on one of the rocks above the water surface while soaking my feet in the water, the world had become more soothing to the body and soul.  A concert of birds and many other insects was at its full blown stage.  Whichever direction I turned, I was met with flowers of all kinds basking in the sun, proud and yet so humble.  The pine forest was so quiet at this hour; butterflies seemed to be the only ones which couldn’t stop dancing amongst blooms of all sizes and colors.

       It was there that I felt closer to the High Sierras than ever.  When I traveled to Yosemite Valley, Lake Tahoe, Sequoia National Park, and other more scenic spots, I felt that the astonishing views kept me on my toes.  I paid attention but still felt so close and yet so far away.  Only here in the back country the majestic mountains took everyone and everything in.  Together with trees, rivers and creeks, flowers and insects, lakes and marshland, we all become one, a world of beauty and peace.  I loved this feeling the most.

8.

     The trail marks was meant for hikers to take another route through hills and over the ridges.  We were ignorant.  As a result, the fire trail turned out to be a significant shortcut thus came back to the cabin around 2 pm.  An early afternoon nap was delicious.

     When we woke up, there was still plenty of time for another expedition.  This time we decided to drive; after all, the feet and legs got bruises and cramps.  Olmstead Point wasn't too far from White Wolf.  I remembered a few years ago that we drove there and saw the spectacular back view of the Half Dome of Yosemite Valley.  This was one of the most scenic drives of the entire world, with big rock peaks and deep rock gorges on both sides.  Small lakes and tall pine trees were all over the place.

     Originally I wanted to take a look at Tanaya Lake but the afternoon was winding down and we had a dinner reservation to honor back at the lodge.  It was inevitable that one would miss not one but many spectacular sights while exploring the High Sierras.  There was so much to see.

    Before the drive, I went outside to wait for others to get ready as the cabin was too small and the air was too stuffy.  In the middle of the many cabins, there were some huge boulders and trees.  I spotted a couple of marmosets, skittish and swift, very cautious and very brave.  One went up a huge boulder and scouted the surroundings and seemed to give the other a look, the other then came up.  They advanced in a deliberate and swift way.  I was mesmerized by their mannerism and the color scheme.  Marmosets looked like squirrels but 10 times bigger.  I had no idea what they were exactly.  So, I thought they were badgers.  It made me feel slightly bad because I remembered that back in China one of my cousins once hunted down a badger or two in the Qinling Mountains. The meat was delicious.  Any meat was delicious in an age of starvation ...

9.

     This had to be one of the easiest trips in recent memory, though not the least scenic.  The third day we took off to drive home.  Along the way, we took a detour to venture into the Yosemite Valley.  I wished to steal a look of the majestic granite valley of gigantic mountains and waterfalls.  It was marvelous idea.  Yosemite never disappointed.

     We got home around 2:30 and the minds seemed to be wandering the mountains a week after.

     July 2, 2007

 


 

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 楼主| 发表于 2008-11-28 06:01:13 | 只看该作者

It's appropriate to say: THANK YOU, SWEETIE


  It's appropriate to say: THANK YOU, SWEETIE





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 楼主| 发表于 2008-11-28 06:00:36 | 只看该作者

Hope you enjoyed the party


  Hope you enjoyed the party





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20#
发表于 2008-11-28 01:59:02 | 只看该作者

祝公子感恩节愉快![@};-]


  祝公子感恩节愉快!





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19#
发表于 2008-11-27 23:58:06 | 只看该作者

小小旧地重游好亲切!问好三公子感恩节快乐![@};-][@};-][>:D<][>:D<][>:D<


回完你的帖,小小就要出门了~~~~~


 
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 楼主| 发表于 2008-11-27 08:20:27 | 只看该作者

多谢抬举!对,英文原文错误少些[:P]


  多谢抬举!对,英文原文错误少些





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17#
发表于 2008-11-27 08:12:31 | 只看该作者

谁说不是呢,以前只有笔兄有这待遇![:-D]


我们夏季的时候去怀柔山区小住了几日,也是感觉特别的好!!
 
这回有事干了,把莺文也打印下来好好的背诵。


 

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 楼主| 发表于 2008-11-27 08:06:31 | 只看该作者

成了马桶读物,级别够高[:-K]


说真的,文章能得到如此厚爱,觉得那翻译的辛苦值。
但愿小雨儿听了妈妈的朗读能展开想象的翅膀在加州的大山里翱翔。
最重要的是谢谢石子女士与我一起接受大山的抚爱;爱是无法忘记的。
祝福你们能找到自己喜爱的那片净土,在那里接受洗礼,回归故里 。。。


 

 

  本贴由[三公子]最后编辑于:2008-11-27 0:22:38  

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 楼主| 发表于 2008-11-27 07:57:22 | 只看该作者

是写给欣赏如此情怀的人们,MM高兴我高兴呢[@};-]


这一篇没有流露另一个年代的灰色,悲哀,也算是个解脱。


 

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14#
发表于 2008-11-27 07:47:47 | 只看该作者

读后感!


公子的游记俺打印之后在大观园拜读了第一遍,
回到家后推荐给先生看,
今天早饭的间歇又读给女儿听,
这还不算完,坐在马桶上又回味一遍
 
公子的游记勾起了我出门旅行的理想,这伟大理想啊被现实的谋生压倒在头脑最深处,如今苏醒!
之后是痛苦,哪儿也不能去,掐指一算俺都三月没出猪窝了!!
 
公子的文笔太好了,是我沉浸在你的感受当中,仿佛大山揽住的不光是燕子,紫菜,那些花儿,蝴蝶,公子,还有石子也徜徉在和煦的阳光下。
 


 

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13#
发表于 2008-11-27 06:23:43 | 只看该作者

谢谢公子兄分享![>:D<]


美丽的风光!美丽的游记! 美丽的诗人情怀!


 

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陶醉于音乐里的臭美妞杭嘉湖
问候你哦
 
 
 
 
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 楼主| 发表于 2008-11-26 20:41:38 | 只看该作者

大猫更明白,找些有好吃的地方跑[:-K]


  大猫更明白,找些有好吃的地方跑





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 楼主| 发表于 2008-11-26 20:39:39 | 只看该作者

大部头石头系列待续 [:-K]


  大部头石头系列待续





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10#
发表于 2008-11-26 19:22:37 | 只看该作者

看来要出大部头了


花了好长时间,慢慢读完了,也只有节日期间才那么奢侈
游记看着很过瘾,三兄文字能力真厉害,娴熟老道,读来如浴春风
 


 

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9#
发表于 2008-11-26 14:28:15 | 只看该作者

好地方,好游记。。公子好文采 [:-Q]


  好地方,好游记。。公子好文采





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 楼主| 发表于 2008-11-26 10:04:12 | 只看该作者

好说,好说 [;)]


  好说,好说





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7#
 楼主| 发表于 2008-11-26 10:03:28 | 只看该作者

冬天也别有一番风味,只是行路难些[@};-]


Good luck to you.


 

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 楼主| 发表于 2008-11-26 10:02:14 | 只看该作者

那是2007年,去年初夏的事 [:P]


总不能每天闷在家里呀。


 

  本贴由[三公子]最后编辑于:2008-11-26 2:15:21  

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5#
发表于 2008-11-26 08:18:34 | 只看该作者

我来也![:-D]


  我来也!





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地板
发表于 2008-11-26 08:14:43 | 只看该作者

好地方,你这是夏天的,俺打算冬天去瞧瞧[:-K]


  好地方,你这是夏天的,俺打算冬天去瞧瞧





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板凳
发表于 2008-11-26 08:13:36 | 只看该作者

公子哥悠哉,看完山看海[:-Q][:-Q][:-Q]


好生活,好情趣

 

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俺的玉玺,关公所赠
好看不?
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沙发
发表于 2008-11-26 08:09:03 | 只看该作者

优胜美地


  优胜美地





---
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俺的玉玺,关公所赠
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